Jaipur, people, and places

Time for a day-in-the-life posting.

Early this morning, I gladly leave "Ankur Resort" hotel in Ranthambhore, after a free hotel breakfast of "scrambuld eggs" toast, and Indian tea (which we call chai in Vancouver). Ranthambhore, unless you are a really big fan of tigers or arid scenery, is not worth it.

My driver, Singh, and I start the four-hour drive to Jaipur, capital of Rajasthan. Singh and I have been getting along well, and he speaks good English. I have been teaching him bicycle songs (he especially likes "Pedal Powered Goddess," and he has tried to teach me some Hindi songs. Little of the Hindi is sticking. There is lots of time for existential conversation: Is it good to give money to beggars? In the countryside, yes, he says. In the city, no.

As we arrive in Jaipur (pop. 2 million), Singh explains confidently that there are no cows on the road because this is the city. By the evening I have counted eight cows downtown, good for some shared laughter.

We stop at my hotel, the Umaid Mahal. It is five times better than Ankur Resort. I start to cheer up; Jaipur will be more comfortable than Ranthambhore.

I spend the rest of the evening walking and shopping for clothes and gifts. Rajasthan is known for its brilliant colours and handicrafts. I ask the tailor if he can make a dress with a hemline just above the knee. He starts quoting me prices for a long top and a pair of trousers. I don't
need trousers, I say, just the top. What will you wear with it? he asks incredulously. An argument ensues win which I try to explain that Western women don't wear trousers with their dresses; the tailor insists that he already knows everything about Western clothes... In the end, I give up trying to order a dress, and stick to a top and skirt.

I'm tired of restuarants, so I am happy to eat in a samosa/sweets/ice-cream shop, where I meet a group of very nice American students and we talk about life in India. We all wonder, sometimes, what we are doing here. But we all find it incredibly fascinating too.